I started linocut printing just over five years ago. Actually, I had tried it first in a high school art class, and had decided at that time, that I did not like the medium. I tried it again in my early twenties, and once again, decided it was not for me.
Five to six years ago I started my first Instagram account for an online gemstone business I had. I really liked Instagram at that time. It was all beautiful photos. Because I am an artist and an art lover, I followed art from artists all around the world. The art I was most drawn to at the time was linocut printing, and I felt inspired to try again. This time, I stayed with it.
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| My first linocut |
When I started, I didn't want to buy expensive material and tools, just in case I was not going to stick with it again. I also didn't want to use oil based ink because I did not want to use toxic solvents for clean up.
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The tools I started with and would recommend if you just want to try to see if you like the linocut printing are as follows:
1. Speedball has a beginning carving set called the Linoleum Cutter Assortment Kit #1. It comes with one handle and five changeable gouges or blades.
2. In order to keep the blades sharp so you do not get frustrated I'd recommend purchasing a Slip Strop by Flexcut. It is very easy to use. Just look up a video online. Dull blades make it difficult to get a smooth carve, and can leave a rough edge to your carve.
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| The slip strope and carving gouges |
3. I started with pink Speedy Carve blocks from Speedball. They are a soft block material, made of a rubbery substance. There are other soft blocks available that you may want to try. This was just readily available to me.
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| Different block materials I have tried |
4. For inks, I started with Speedball water based inks. I had some that were twenty years old or more and they were still usable, and then I also purchased more. I also tried the water based printing inks by Blick. Whatever you buy, you need to but inks specific to linocut or block printing, also called relief printing inks.
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| Speedball inks, tools and Speedy Carve block |
5. Ink rollers. I started with and still use Speedball rollers. I prefer the soft, not the hard rollers.
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| Ink rollers |
6. When I first started printing, I did it by hand. No press. I also started with a heavy printing paper called Legion Stonehenge. Not recommended for hand printing. Light weight papers like rice paper or mulberry paper or anything under 175gsm, would better for hand printing. Daniel Villa, another linocut artist, recommends Rives BFK 115-175gsm paper, or for a less expensive option, Black Masterprint Paper 75gsm. A thinner paper requires less pressure to transfer an image, so less wear and tear on your hands. As far as what to use to press the paper, you can purchase a baren, or use a wooden spoon, a metal spoon, or the glass top from a candle.
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I worked in an art supply store for many years when I was in my twenties, which I loved. I learned so much about the quality of good, expensive art materials. They are pricy for a reason. The quality of your art supplies makes a HUGE difference in your finished art piece. I will say this again because it is soooo important, the quality of your art supplies makes a HUGE difference in your finished art piece.
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That being said, using the above mentioned supplies were good for me to begin with. But I could not get the quality that I wanted from my finished prints. I'm kind of a perfectionist. I knew those materials were not for me. So I read about what other printmakers were using for inks, paper, and tools, and I bought what I could little by little until I finally know what works best for me now. Please know, each artist will have tools they like best.
Here are the tools I now use and recommend:
1. I like to carve on battleship grey linoleum and Japanese vinyl. I like the way the printing ink takes to the blocks, and how well the materials print. I only use the Japanese vinyl when I am doing a multi-colored jigsaw puzzle print. The vinyl is more expensive, but it stays flat, which is necessary when you are making a puzzle print.
2. I recommend Pfeil and Flexcut carving gouges. I have only two of the Pfeil gouges, the smallest sizes, #11 and #12. Then I have two different sets of the Flexcut tools. Their SK130 comes with one handle and five interchangeable gouges, and I have their FR804 Micro Palm Set. Either or both of these sets are wonderful.
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| Pfeil and Flexcut tools |
3. My favorite inks by far are made by Cranfield out of the UK, and they are called Caligo Safewash relief inks. The colors are vibrant and full of pigment, and they clean up easily with soap and water. The only oil based ink I use is also made by Cranfield, called Cranfield relief inks, and I only use the metallics in that range. They are gorgeous.
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| Caligo Safewash inks |
4. I started with and still use Speedball soft ink rollers.
5. Paper. There is so much to choose from. I was a watercolor painter for twenty years and with watercolor, the heavier the paper, the flatter it will stay. With printing, it's not the same. You don't have to worry about that, but I still like a heavy print paper. I started out with Legion Stonehenge, and I still use it now. The paper comes in a beautiful range of neutral tones. It is 260gsm in weight.
6. A press. I tried a number of small presses before I purchased my Woodzilla Press. I love it. It has worked very well for me. But I do know of some artists that cannot make it work for them. I'm really not sure why.
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Using my Woodzilla press
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